My Personal Tour of France

The American Cemetery in Normandy

My Personal Tour of France Part 1

By Rick Olivares

There are the usual destinations and attractions to see when on tour. Here in France, it is the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Arc de Triomphe, the Bastille, Versailles, and Giverny to name a few. But here are my favourites. 

The Louvre

A mind-blowing experience in so many ways unless one has no appreciation for art. As a youngster, I loved illustration and only gave it up in high school as my interests went into another direction. However, in school up to college, we had art appreciation classes that although I found boring picked up enough to understand the significance of it all.

Now to see them up close… there’s a sense of amazement and wonder that even days after leaves me tongue tied.

While the Mona Lisa is perhaps the most famous work of art, I for one as more blown away by neo-classic painter Jaques Louis David’s The Coronation of Napoleon, the 33x20 feet tall painting that depicted the French leader seizing the Emperor’s crown from Pope Gregory (he would crown himself). The basic rules of neo-classic art are here for all to survey - how there is a line from the cross to Napoleon holding the crown to his Empress Josephine who is kneeling. Napoleon is at the centre of it all. 

The Coronation of Napoleon at the Louvre

I spent 20 minutes gazing at this massive masterpiece that took the painter two years to complete. If I didn’t have to move on then I would have stayed longer. To the left is David’s other incredible work Leonidas at Thermopylae. Another mind-boggling piece of work that depicted the Spartan king right before his death. 

My other favourites?

The Winged Assyrian Bulls, the Mollien staircase, the Winged Victory of Samothrace, the Apollo gallery, Venus de Milo, the guards of Darius, the Goddess of Sekhmet, the sarcophagus of Ramses III, and Eugene deal Croix’s Liberty leading the People… whew. There’s a lot more. As our Walking Tour of Paris guide, Alexandre, said a few days earlier, if one took one minute to gaze at every single work of art, then it would take him almost 25 days to finish the Louvre. 

At Rue de Bac

Chapelle Notre-Dame du Medaille Miraculeuse (140 Rue de Bac)

Site of where the incorrupt body of St. Catherine Laboure lies (as well as the bones of St. Louise of de Marillac are placed inside a wax body). It is one thing to read about it in a book of saints as a youngster but it is another to see the body right in front of you. More than the painting of the Coronation of Napoleon, this one had me sitting down transfixed and praying. More than anything, it reaffirms my faith.

Normandy

Site of one of the most famous battles in world history. The successful beachhead changed the course of World War II. It used to be that I saw these places immortalised in films like “The Longest Day,” “Saving Private Ryan,” and the HBO mini-series supreme, “Band of Brothers.” 

It was eerie going inside those bunkers at Pointe Du Hoc with all those films running in my head. "This one got blasted,” I thought to myself. “How many people died here?”

Even the American Cemetery left me emotional. So much the price of war if only to make the world a better place.

As a child, I had this fascination and interest for all things military. At one point in my life, I even considered a career in the military. Obviously, I took another path. This trip to this hallowed land was a way of paying respects to those who paid the brutal ultimate sacrifice. 

The tomb of Richard the Lionheart at Rouen Cathedral

Rouen

Another of my childhood fascinations borne out of that first book of saints given to me by my mother. Joan of Arc or Jeanne D’Arc has long held sway with me. I have watched documentaries and the films and have a few items in my personal collection about her life. The medieval town of Rouen is one of two places associated with Joan of Arc the other being Orleans where she led the French army to victory over the English and their Burgundian allies. Rouen is where she was imprisoned, tried, and later martyred. 

When I opted not to go to Mont St. Michel, I went to Rouen. 

I was excited about the opportunity to see it first hand but to see it moved me differently. Like Normandy, I felt sad. To see the tower, the last remaining piece of the old castle of Rouen, where she was imprisoned left me in tears. From the ground it looks dark and lonely. The windows are small so air must have been difficult to breathe. And it must have been claustrophobic.

Such a dark and lonely tower and that was where she was imprisoned before she was dragged to the square where she was burned on the stake. 

I was looking for a huge statue to make the place. Only there wasn’t. Simply a small sign that said that this was where she was martyred. There was a statue a few feet away and a huge cross. 

I went feeling elated but left sad and unhappy. It was a most gruesome way to die. I offered some prayers for Joan of Arc, my parents and family, and those who condemned her to death.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery

This trip was bourne out of an article I read decades ago in Rolling Stone magazine that featured the grave sites of dead rock stars. In the article feature, the picture of the grave of Jim Morrison in this cemetery was defaced and disfigured. And it left an impression on me. I was five years old when Morrison died of a drug overdose. I began to listen to the Doors in college and became a huge fan. The band has since been a staple of my turntable, compact disc, and digital music players.

The grave was cordoned off by a heavy metal barrier and had some police stationed nearby. When I asked the uniformed policewoman, she said that it is because people come over to write or draw graffiti on the grave. 

But coming within a few feet remains a powerful experience because he is a man whose music and writing has influenced me.

Other notable visits at Pere Lachaise, Heloise and Abelard, the medieval lovers who had an illicit relationship; Oscar Wilde, Marcel Proust, and Edith Piaf. 

The grave of Jim Morrison at Pere Lachaise

Euro adventure: Paris and why I love taking these unofficial tours.

Why I love taking the unofficial tours

By Rick Olivares

 “Baguette!”

With that one word —it’s no “Avengers Assemble” or “Tally Ho” — we were off to see Paris through the Sandeman’s Walking Tour. For free! Yep, for free. The only money these guides, who are spread across Europe by the way, make money is through tips. So they know that making any good money is also contingent upon their ability to engage, educate, and make people enjoy the tour.

In many ways, I enjoy these “unofficial tours” (those not deemed to be official by the government-tasked tourism agencies) is because they are staffed with guides who are totally dedicated to their craft. Their attention to detail and trivia is engrossing and impressive.

Take for example the Sandeman’s tour of Paris, now that's three hours of a Reader’s Digest version of French history while traversing the famous and historic museums, buildings, palaces, cathedrals and churches along the Seine River. 

Our American-French guide named Alexandre began out tour at Place St. Michel at the Latin Quarter just opposite Notre Dame Cathedral. And like the significance of the fountain, Alexandre began his speil with Baron Georges Haussmann who was commissioned by Napoleon III in 1851 to beautify and develop Paris into the modern architectural and engineering marvel that it is today. While a prophet is never believed in his hometown as critics scored him for his extravagance, Haussmann’s vision of Paris remains powerful and significant as it has greatly influenced Barcelona, Brussels, Madrid, Rome, Stockholm, Vienna, and key cities in the United States.

Not only is the view and scenery is breathtaking but the history lesson is incredible; something I and possibly most who take the tour, know or understand. And later in our week-long stay in France, I understand other things the more I see them.

More than a history lesson, Alexandre made us forget the biting cold as we are still in the last days of spring with his jokes and choice one-liners that had everyone — no matter what their nationality is - in stitches. 

For example, while seated in a circle at the courtyard of the Louvre, Alexandre -- in total deadpan humour style — dryly noted that the story or urban myth about the glass pyramids that regained popularity when that “greatest historian of our times — Dan Brown incorporated that into his controversial best-seller, “The Da Vinci Code.” Boy, did everyone get a laugh out that. The American tourists included. 

When Alexandre recounted how at Notre Dame the French kings were crowned, this Frenchman with bird food placed them on top of a female tourist’s hat prompting all the pigeons to flock to her. Our guide was bright enough to sense that something more interesting was occurring. “I guess it is time for a commercial break because anything else I say will pale in comparison to a woman covered with pigeons.”

More laughter.

It was only the jokes and the historical recounting. Our guide gave up practical tips and reminders from not tipping to being mindful of pick pocket to how to properly pronounce “Champs Elysee.”

This reminded me of the time when I took the “unofficial” Beatles Tour of Liverpool — Daytrippers and McComb’s “Game of Thrones Locations Tour” of Northern Ireland. Our guides were a total joy as they were not only a chockfull of information but also fun pals.

This is in stark contrast to the Tourism France tour of Normandy that I took into my fourth day in the country. It billed itself as visiting the sites of Pointe Du Hoc, Omaha Beach, the American Cemetery, Arrowmanches, and Bayeux. Honestly, it was a terrible tour. Not only was our guide, Elisa (she was nice though but this isn’t about being nice but efficient) not too knowledgeable about the tours as she would oft repeat words and phrases several times in a speil as if giving us the run-around but we also did NOT go down at Omaha Beach. If there is any one place one should go down in Normandy it is Omaha Beach. Not only was it the site of the bloodiest fighting but it is a battle that is world history that is pivotal as much as the Battle of Waterloo, Marathon, Stalingrad, Antietam, or Hastings to name a few. 

Arrowmanches? Bayeux? 

What the hell! Where is St. Mere Eglise? Carentan? 

Not going down at Omaha Beach (they said the view from the American Cemetery is better) is inexcusable. If they said this in their advertisements then I believe they would get fewer patrons.

I wish too our guide to Normandy had more stories in her speil. There was nothing. In fact, many of the patrons knew much much more than her. 

Because of what happened, I skipped taking the tour to Mont St. Michel that the same agency was offering. Instead, I opted to do my own tour of Rouen much like I did when I went about London. 

So I lumped the Normandy tour along with the hop on/hop off tour of Edinburgh. After five minutes, I pretty much figured out the city (use the Scots Monument as your focal point in direction because you know that where the city divides between the old and new towns.

Technically, I didn’t need to do the Paris walking tour as I’ve got an excellent GPS in my brain. All one had to do was keep to the Seine in a straight line as you’d pass through them all — Notre Dame Cathedral, the Louvre, the Pont d’Alma where Princess Diana lost her life, the Tuileries Gardens and you can see that grand boulevard Champs Elysee and the Eiffel Tower in the distance. Despite that it was three hours well spent and I gave Alexandre a 10 Euro tip (collectively with my siblings and kids 35 Euros).

If you have an excellent sense of history then you can go around on your own. If not taking the guided tours won’t hurt as you probably wouldn’t know any better. Furthermore, if you can figure out the labyrinth system that is the New York subway you can figure anything out.

Having said that, there are trade offs to taking official and unofficial tours. 

The official tours provide transportation and direction. But photo opportunities are few and far in between.

The unofficial? Well, you kind of save a little more but you walk more but the photo ops are tremendous.

The official tours take you to places you don’t really want to go to such as that pearl and gift shop in Hong Kong and that tapestry shop in Bayeux.

The unofficial? If you plan your trip well you save time and money and go where you want to go. Besides you see more on ground level. 

As for that trip in Paris — that Paris Pass helped quite a lot as I didn’t have to queue for the museums and it saved me from paying for the Metro and bus rides.

Euro Trip 2015! Paris, France Day One

This trip is a bonding session for the Olivares boys (my two brothers and my two sons and me). My brothers arrived a full day ahead of us in Paris. We stayed at the Hotel Moderne in the Latin Quarter that is a beautiful part of Paris. We're right behind the Pantheon with Notre Dame Cathedral a few minutes' walk away. And the River Seine is close by and our guide as we walk around Paris.

In the photo below, that's me and my sons Anthony and Matthew on the balcony of our hotel room. It was still spring so there was that chill about. There were days when we still needed a jacket to get by.

It is actually very easy to get around Paris. During our first day there, we didn't ride any public transportation. You see by the Seine, if you walk a bit, you will come across the Louvre, the Tuilleries Gardens and then Champs Elysee where the Arc De Triomphe is located. Besides, there's lots to see around. I've got loads and loads of pics in my Facebook

Notre Dame Cathedral! Is Quasimodo up there by the belfry?

Selfie time by the River Seine

Fooling around at the Louvre with my son Anthony. The musee was closed for the day (Mondays).

At the Tuilleries Gardens. 

At the Arc De Triomphe. I love this picture. One of the best family shots we had during our trip. Perfect!

Remnants: That little shop of treasures

Remnants GM Chito Soliven and owner Remy Cabaltera

Remnants: That little shop of treasures

by rick olivares

In perhaps the last artiste’s haven in Manila, Cubao X… where intellectual rebels, indie designers, comic book geeks and gamers, rock purveyors, and the odd restaurateur find refuge, there too are the thrift shops. In the western hemisphere, these repositories are called, “pawn shops.”

It’s all just another name but as they say, the song remains the same. Here one man’s junk is another man’s gold.

In the case of one proprietor, they are remnants from the past that are in need of new homes; hence, the shop name, “Remnants,” a clever and apt play on the noun and the first name of its store owner, Remy Cabaltera.

The lady from Lanao Del Sur picked up from her late father the habit of keeping things. The wise man that he was, Remy’s father instructed her to never throw away anything outside the obvious trash. “They will be of some value some day,” he imparted. It became crystal clear when those old wartime Japanese newspapers he put aside were sold for quite a sum.

“That’s when I realized what my father had been talking about all these years about saving things,” recalls Cabaltera.

So junk, old stuff, antiques… whatever you want to call it, has become Remy’s life. She’s been in the business of re-selling things for over two decades now. Her first shop was at the old Farmer’s Market Center before it moves to its present location in along General Romulo Avenue in Cubao X (“Marikina Shoe Expo” as it was formerly named), that last bit of real estate that is a throwback to a bygone era and is sandwiched between the colossuses of gentrification known as the condominium.

“At first, I placed ads in the newspaper that I was open to buying people’s personal collections, junk etc.” said Remy. “As Remnants and the other thrift shops in Cubao X became popular, word of our stores and businesses spread by word of mouth. Now we don’t need to advertise.”

The clientele is diverse as the shops contained in the U-shaped arcade. She has celebrity and broadcast personalities who frequent her shop. Julius Babao, Cristy Fermin, Miriam Quimbao, Ronnie Ricketts, Aiza Seguerra, and Connie Sison are a few who have bought items in her shop.

There are a lot of foreigners who also visit her shop. “We had these bunch of Frenchmen come over and buy all the available local komiks,” related Chito Soliven, the store’s affable general manager. “I asked them how they will read them since they were all in Tagalog but they said they will learn and also use it to study the artwork.”

One time, a man from China flew in and went straight to Remnants from the airport, bought every single rock music vinyl album on display, and hopped on back on a plane. “He got everything – AC/DC, Led Zeppelin, Eric Clapton, the Beatles, Hendrix…”

Occasionally, there are genuine treasures sold in the shop.

“I had a customer who sold me a lot of items,” recounts Remy of a fish that got away. “It so happened that between the pages of one of the books, there was a piece of paper that had a sketch that was signed. I had a customer who was buying some furniture who immediately noticed the sketch. She asked, ‘Remy, magkano ‘to?’ I thought for a moment and then mentioned the first amount that popped into my head. I sold it for P3,500 and this customer would always always haggle for a lower price. This time she got it without any qualms. I only realized later on what I had on my hands. It was an original Ang Kiukok (the late National Artist for the Visual Arts) that was signed and dated. I think it taught me to really go through each and every item that comes to me as well as to properly appraise them.”

Another famous treasure sold in Remnants was a father clock that was given by former American President Franklin D. Roosevelt to his Philippine counterpart, Manuel Luis Quezon. There was a signed dedication on the clock that was sold for a little over P12,000.

Remy and Chito say that they usually go through bodegas of other people about twice a month. It usually picks up around January up to June when people are in need of money for their children’s schooling. “We spent a lot of hours going through dusty and moldy bodegas. But it’s all part of the fun.”

Cabaltera says that there’s been a slight drawback due to the popularity of the television reality show on the History Channel, Pawn Stars. “That made people aware of what they may have in their bodegas so the asking prices for their items has become larger in fee.”

“For some people, parting with their belongings is difficult because there’s an attached emotional value,” added Remy. “On several occasions now, I have had customers who sold me things only to buy them back because they had second thoughts about letting them go. I sold it back to them of course… at no profit. I don’t want people to say that I am holding their belongings to ransom.”

“But I’ve been lucky because through my thrift shops, I have been able to put my children through school. It remains a hobby because there is so much you learn through this. And it really makes me happy when these items find a new home. It pays to appreciate things.”

Author’s Note: Some of the items I bought from Remnants include a near mint condition copy of the first ever English language printing and edition of Colombian author Gabriel Garcia Marquez’ “Love in the Time of Cholera” (1988 Albert Knopf/Doubleday) for P200 and a beaten up copy of the late Nonoy Marcelo’s Ikabod series, Dagang Sosyal that I used to have but have lost in the intervening years. Also for P150! I also have purchased a number of old Filipino komiks at Remnants.

Muggles aren't allowed on Platform 9 3/4!

I really planned on doing this when I got to Platform 9 3/4 at King's Cross.

This particular area is popular with tourists and locals who all want their piece of Harry Potter history. There are standard poses such as the one below with one of the staff at the Harry Potter shop holding up the scarf then letting it go while another snaps a photo. You can avail of the official photo at the Harry Potter Platform 9 3/4 for L9.50! Yep, it's a lot. But still. Why not?

This is the original touch! I wanted to have a photo of me on the ground after smashing against the wall. The Harry Potter store staff and the crowd were laughing at this. "Totally original," they said. "Haven't had anyone do this yet."

Well, there's a method to my madness, right?

Visiting Rough Trade East!

While my introduction to music was the Beatles and then later on bands like Led Zeppelin, Fleetwood Mac, the Eagles, KISS, Queen, and Deep Purple to name a few, I guess I came off age, in terms of music in the 1980s when I was in high school and the New Wave era was in full swing. It was there I bought my first vinyl records and began to expand my music horizons. I eschewed the 70s and went for the anti-establishment that was punk, reggae, and ska. 

If you were a serious music fan back in those New Wave 80s then you would have heard of Rough Trade Records. At first, they were the purveyor of indie music that made the genre available to the culture-starved like me. But you still had to be a moneyed person to get the releases coming out of Rough Trade if you lived in Manila. 

Eventually, Rough Trade branched out and became their own record label. I have the complete catalogue of British Sea Power in addition to picking up music from Microdisney, The Fiery Furnaces, The Libertines, and The Strokes.

I finally made the connection the other day as I journeyed to Rough Trade East (the original in Kensington is closed). It was musical nirvana. I thought of old friends and my youth. It was an affirmation of myself as a music fan and as an indie music fan. And stepping inside the stores was like visiting an old friend.

Taking the Game of Thrones Locations Tour of Northern Ireland

My tribute to the immortal Hulk Hogan on a rock at Carrick-a-rede and Larrybane where Brien of Tarth wins he place as a part of the Kingsguard

Taking the Game of Thrones Locations Tour of Northern Ireland

by rick olivares

SORRY BUT I WON'T POST THE BEAUTIFUL PICS I TOOK TO PREVENT PEOPLE FROM SWIPING THEM WITHOUT PERMISSION. IF YOU WANT TO SEE ALL OF THEM YOU WILL HAVE TO GO TO MY FACEBOOK PAGE.

As a fan of Game of Thrones (both the book that I read first and the television series), I had to take this tour guaranteed a look and then some of picturesque Northern Ireland. 

While chatting with former Ateneo Women’s Volleybelle Patty Taganas-Crampton who has lived in Northern Ireland for the past two years about my trip to the United Kingdom, she suggested taking the tour (of which she hadn’t as well).

I have admired the work of Robert Boake, the series’ location manager, who recently was the recipient of an award for his work on Game of Thrones. While the series has been filmed in a number of countries – Croatia, Iceland, Malta and Morocco – the most number of set locations have been in Northern Ireland. If the Lord of the Rings showcased New Zealand to the world, Game of Thrones has painted altogether another picture of a place that in most minds in strife ridden. And I assure you it is not.

We took McComb’s Game of Thrones Tour that was slated to last a whole day for £35. It is not so bad considering you are seated comfortably in a nice coach and with a group of not more than 30 people. But for our tour, there were about 24, an even more intimate number because the bus isn’t the cramped. Furthermore, we had a cracking good time with our hilarious and awesome tour guide, Derek Gordon, who spiced his commentary about Northern Ireland and the Game of Thrones location sets with his humour.

More than the wit, Derek added to our tour with side trips to other scenic spots in Northern Ireland. Leaving Belfast, our first stop was Carrickfergus Castle, one of the earliest settlements on Northern Ireland that was later used as a base by William the Conqueror. I swear, I will never look at William the Conqueror again in the same manner (in a height and carrots-manner). You'll understand that if you take the tour.

Once we left the city confines, we traveled along the sunbaked and wind-swept east coastline that was simply breathtaking. It was a stark contrast to the rough road out of Belfast International that was some teasing scenery such as tree line that resembles the Dark Hedges and some urban decay. But what modern day city doesn’t have that? It greatly improved as we left Belfast.

We passed by Cairncastle where in the first episode of Game of Thrones, Ned Stark beheads a Night Watch deserter. We didn’t stop though for any photo opportunities as there really wasn’t much to begin with.

Larne where current Liverpool FC manager Brendan Rodgers was born and raised. The location in County Antrim is also home to the memorials for Paddy the Pigeon and SS Periot

Our second side trip was to picturesque Larne where according to Derek, current Liverpool FC manager Brendan Rodgers was born and raised. That got a huge whoop out of me and some boos from Pete Stott, a Manchester United fan from Birmingham. Derek and I kind of got on Pete in a good-natured manner that left the other tourists roaring with laughter.

Larne is beautiful for its lovely seaport that has been in operation for over a thousand years! This is the port where Scots used to land when migrating to Northern Ireland. 

The Harbour also has two memorials – one for the SS Peridot that sank just off the coast due to bad weather and another for Paddy, a pigeon that was used during the Allied landings at Normandy to carry messages. To date, Paddy is the only recipient of the Dickin Medal that is the Irish’s equivalent of the Victoria Cross!

From all that history, we moved on to another key location for Game of Thrones!

At Cushendun Cave

This one was at the Chushendun Caves where the frightening scene of Melisandre giving birth to the Shadow Creature was filmed as Davos Seaworth looked on in horror.

There are two caves here. The one that comes from the sea is where Davos and Melisandre step out. And the wider cave is where the witch gives birth to that foul creature. With the set design, it looks downright creepy but in the daylight sans props, it’s an ordinary cave in a lovely setting.

Our next stop was Carrick-a-rede and Larrybane where Brien of Tarth defeated Sir Loras to win her place as Renly Barratheon’s Kingsguard. It’s an old limestone quarry, hence, its white walls. And it offers a beautiful view of the sea and nearby Sheep Island where a farmer supposedly let his sheep graze as a means to combat poaching.

You have to be careful about walking around and taking photos because some places have a treacherous drop while some grass areas have sheep and cow dung. But luckily, the area is well maintained because of the tourists who come in on a daily basis. 

From there we drove off to lovely Ballintoy Harbour that is the set for Iron Islands’ seaport and the scene of Theon Greyjoy’s homecoming in Season Two. Obviously, the set producers had to make it look like a medieval seaport. But like everything else, it was breathtakingly beautiful.

The marker for Theon Lovejoy's scene at Balintoy Harbour

By the Harbour is Roark’s Kitchen, a traditional Irish pub. It was close to lunch and I along with the other tourists were already hungry. I just snapped some photos but we as a group repaired to the Fullerton Arms Pub and Hotel that is along the Main Street. This is where the cast and crew of Game of Thrones go for eats and drinks during breaks in their shooting schedule. The pub itself has its own Game of Thrones Room where there is a mock Iron Throne and a Map of Westeros! 

My first authentic Irish meal? Steak and Guinness Pie at £8.50! After a sumptuous lunch and a time for bonding with the rest our tour group, we proceeded to Ballycastle that is the home to Lady Catelyn Stark although we didn’t stop for any photos.

Lunch at the Fullerton Arms Pub where the cast of Game of Thrones frequently dines and drinks.

Our second to the last stop was at Giant's Causeway. As a youngster, I read about the myth  of the Irish warrior Finn MacCool who battled the Scottish giant Brenandonner. The result of their battle was Giant's Causeway. With the 40,000 basalt columns placed in near perfect symmetry, it seems that Giant's Causeway is man-made. But it is not. It is the result of an ancient volcanic eruption and since 1986, has been named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

I am either Echo and the Bunnymen's Ian MacCulloch or Ralph Macchio doing Karate Kid. Take your pick.

There were hundreds of people scrambling for photo ops and selfies atop the basalt rocks. But none more beautiful and romantic than a newlywed couple’s photo op while kissing.

Our last stop was the Dark Hedges where Arya Stark escaped to following the beheading of her father, Ned Stark. The Dark Hedges is an avenue of beech trees that were planted by the Stuart family some two centuries ago. Their gnarly branches and formation make for a magnificent sight and are always the subject of many a photo essay and pictorial. Me and some friends? We reprised that famous Abbey Road crossing along the Dark Hedges! Brilliant if I may pat my own back. Hahaha. Now since this was our last stop, we had a tour group picture.

Crossing the Dark Hedges -- Abbey Road style!

The entre tour, including the side trips, has been one postcard sight for sore eyes. When you think about it, its £35 well spent. If you had gone on a personal trip it might have cost more. Sure you travel at a pace of your own. But in a group, especially one as boisterous and cool as we had – including the insightful and humorous commentary by Derek, our tour guide; it was added to the pricelessness of the trip. The trip wasn’t just a connection with a fantasy series I have loved since the book’s initial release (and to the subsequent HBO series that is even better) but it was also a trip down some of the best locations on God’s green earth.

Our tour group minus four people (who were lagging behind).

With our tour guide, Derek, Northern Ireland's resident funnyman and fellow Liverpool fan.